After three weeks of exploring Costa Rica in April-May, I came home with a strong sense of the country's food culture, from traditional to contemporary dishes. Nutritionally sound meals tended to rely heavily on fruits and vegetables, protein, and complex carbohydrates. I discovered a balance of global cuisines in urban areas, countrywide legacies of Spanish conquest, and regional influences of indigenous cultures and Afro-Caribbean heritage.
Traditional Tico Food
Costa Rican "Sodas" are the most affordable sit-down eats, serving Comida tipica, often providing the option to customize your meal. Their namesake derives from the fact that these restaurants were originally family-friendly environments that served only soda and no alcohol. The Casado is the most traditional Costa Rican lunch, which typically includes beans and rice (Gallo Pinto), a small salad, a protein source (meat, fish, or eggs), plantains (patacones, plátanos maduros, mangu), and sometimes Turrialba cheese. Expect to eat rice and beans 2-3 times a day. If you are staying near a coast, I recommend ordering the seafood because it is incredibly fresh and world-class.
Plant-Based Dining
I was surprised by the abundance of vegan, vegetarian, and pescatarian food options in all corners of the country. To be fair, I frequented tourism hotspots that cater more to a diverse global customer base. Perhaps plant-based dining options abound because of the country's emphasis on sustainability and locally-based consumption. As a pescatarian, it was a treat to travel where local, healthy food dominated, compared to my home in the Southern U.S., where "fast, fried, and cheap" remains our food slogan.
I dined at Mother Earth Vegan Hotel in Tamarindo for a pretty penny but enjoyed panoramic rainforest/beach views. The hotel is the first of its kind in the country and prioritizes sustainability and plant-based living. On the opposite coast, Puerto Viejo is full of plant-based dining options. Still, Como en mi Casa - Art Cafe stands out among the competition for gluten-free, vegan, and vegetarian options. Back in Monteverde, high up in the central cloud forests, Valle Escondido Nature Reserve knocked my socks off with their organic farm permaculture tour and farm-to-table dining experience. Don Juan Tours Monteverde offers a coffee, chocolate, and sugarcane tour that dives into these tropical staple crops' history, cultivation, and economics for the regular traveler who isn't obsessed with food production and sustainability. We even had the opportunity to make sugar cane water, assist in chocolate making, and crush coffee beans by hand, reminiscent of the pre-industrial age. I also had a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to visit a spice farm near Manuel Antonio National Park. The Villa Vanilla Farm Rainforest Spice Tour built on my permaculture knowledge and I learned about agroforestry and biodynamic farming. It was a treat to see vanilla, cacao, cinnamon, allspice, clove, black pepper, ginger, turmeric, etc., in person! The tour closed with a gourmet tasting menu that featured spices in delicious baked goods.
Cost
Be aware that Costa Rica is not a cheap country. I was alarmed by the 23% tax at the bottom of your receipt. I needed a locals help to demystify the charges. The first 10% is allocated as the waiters tip. The remaining 13% VAT tax funds countrywide social services. On the one hand, this means that meal costs rack up quickly. On the other hand, tourism is often very exploitative of a country's citizens and natural resources, so paying your dues to enjoy the well-maintained infrastructure and national parks is well worth it.
Costa Rica is the perfect travel destination for the food culture novice, permaculture veteran, and everyone in between. You can immerse yourself in the traditional food culture while appreciating the plant-based movement across the country.